@JL2KOcancer - When you start a new thread make sure you click on the category that best suits the subject. I've been changing all your threads you've started in the "Bull Terrier Description" page.
- Steve Gogulski "It's not just a Dog, it's a Bull Terrier!" www.bulliesofnc.com
There's nothing wrong with choke collars especially when dealing with a strong dog that's not used to going on walks on a leash or a dog that requires extra restraint due to aggressiveness with other dogs.
For dogs used to going on walks they most likely wont require choke collars if they're taught properly on a lead not to pull.
- Steve Gogulski "It's not just a Dog, it's a Bull Terrier!" www.bulliesofnc.com
Daisy is not a puller, thank goodness. She's like walking an old lady around even though she's 1 1/2 y/o. Snoopy, on the other hand, has been difficult to leash train when it comes to pulling. I have an old prong collar I use to use on our Kerry Blue as I worried about control due to his dog aggression. I have never used it with Snoopy. I tried something different with him. Every time he tried to pull, I would stop and not move. When he "checked in" with me, I would call him back to me and love him up when he came back. Then we started the whole process over. Needless, to say, this wasn't fast and it took a long time for him to finally be a great dog on leash. Now, he stays by me and we have enjoyable walks.
I hope I do this correctly this time! Sorry for being lame! Re collars for strong willed dogs OR those who may if something happens, be able to get out of a buckle collar.
I love MARTINGALE collars! They come in leather, nylon and probably other things too but they all have something in common. Under the dog's neck they are a regular collar(I bet one of you guys can do this better than I can!). But the parts that meet over the dogs neck are connected by a "loop", This piece of Chain, nylon, whatever forms a circle so that when you attache a lead to the ring in it, the collar itself will tighten then quickly loosen as the tension is let off. They are easy on the dog and won't come off in an emergency. GOGGLE them and I expect you'll get an image which will make this much simpler! LOL
When I have a dog with a large neck compared to their head, I use these Martingales.
Hope this gives out some ideas to take a look at that may help in some cases. Sonja & Pumba in OR.
I was surfing about dog behaviour and put dog pinching which very occasionally my Bullie does if he thinks I've been ignoring him and was surprised when adverts came up for pinch collars- collars with metal prongs directly into the neck and covers to conceal so the collars look like regular collars. Wouldn't the prongs in time damage the skin around the neck causing soreness and scabbing?
Those pinch or prong collars are designed to only be worn when training a dog on a leash to stop pulling. They're not going to "cut" into the neck and cause harm. Many people have had good success with their use. Quick jerks of the collar would NOT be a good idea with this type of device. It's meant to provide additional discomfort for a dog that starts pulling on his/her leash.
I personally think a prong is a better choice then a choker-a choker for a bull terrier often rubs the thin fur and thin skin around the throat causing open sores, redness and crusty dry irritated skin.
a prong collar is FELT and thru causes (most) dogs to stop pulling and allows the prong to relax and not rub or tear the skin.
HOWEVER-these are only for very stubborn dogs who have not responded to training.
training can be difficult if your not sure what you are doing-I like to use a free-shaping loose lead walking, or even the "silky leash" technique. (you can find on youtube)
free shaping a good walk means, taking a clicker and some treats, and walk with your dog in the yard-don't pull them but switch directions-the second your bully is walking WITH YOU (even for a brief second) click and reward.
you do this until your bully isu nderstand why they are being rewarded-then you wait to click and reward for longer and longer periods of time.
Spud's trainer will be showing me how to use the prong collar at the start of his next set of classes. I think everyone has mentioned most on the prong collar above but I'll make sure to add any tips I get from Spud's trainer.
Yes, the loose lead - sausage in the pocket has worked well for my boy along with asking him to 'walk nicely'- I always start out any lead work with reminding him to walk nicely and offer periodic treats - though I do worry if I got run over or dropped dead people might wonder why I have pockets full of sausage but at least my family would recognise any description of me in the absence of I D - a person was found today with pockets full of sausage....... back to the pinch collar, I haven't ever before encountered them my self here in the uk
If used properly & for the right reasons "chokers" aren't nearly as bad as people portray them to be. When put over the head they should go on like the letter P from your perspective (assuming you're walking the dog on your left side) It's best that the ring stays on the outside top part of dogs neck, which allows the collar to easily hang like a necklace if the dog is walking properly. Dogs usually respond to the clicking/popping sound the links rubbing against the ring makes if you give it a gentle tug if they are starting to pull or fall back before it even gets snug. At most it should just make it a little uncomfortable to them if they aren't where they are supposed to be. Chokers should never get to the point where they are choking them anyway. Like Steve previously said if the dog is a constant puller the prong is the better choice.
I have seen people refuse to use these yet they use a flat collar on their hard pulling or dragging dog and do more damage. The constant friction of a regular flat collar on a dogs neck that doesn't properly walk makes the dogs neck raw, pink and irritated. Sometimes creating sores.
It's a hard one with confirmed 'pullers' - one of my border collies (she is 12 now) was / is a confirmed puller yet it wasnt for the want of or lack of training- she was expelled from puppy training as a problem dog at the age of 4 months- thought all the other pups were there for her to herd up- she had them in her sights and crouched like a wolf sneaking up on them-she has always been on her own agenda with the cursory glance towards training. She is probably the only girl who has reduced me to tears. Beautiful to look at- a blue Merle Welsh Collie- china blue eyes luxurious white/blue coat (although she has in the last 18months developed Cushings- so she looks a bit moth eaten now). I tried a halti head leash - she threw her whole body weight on the ground and refused to move, if she did move it was only to shovel her head along the floor trying to scrape it off- I tried a harness and I tried the old Barbara Woodhouse (english dog trainer of years ago ) idea that you keep ahead of the dog and pull him/ her up to your stride rather than the other way round. I tried a half choke chain- short chain + fabric- all failed. I ran miles in the hope of wearing her out - too tired to pull- but she just got fitter! All I can say now is I'm glad she is mine. She just wanted to be herself and I let her be- we have and have had a 50.5 / (me) 49.5(her) life together- its a hard one but sometimes once in a while we encounter canines that feel they don't need us interrupting their stride. If something is pulling against you and you let go, you haven't lost- it means the puller has because they have nothing to pull against any more- game over - cant play a football game on your own- but your're absolutely right about Bullies getting sore necks and the fur wearing down- I take my boys collar off in the house and at night when he is asleep.
Comments
"It's not just a Dog, it's a Bull Terrier!"
www.bulliesofnc.com
For dogs used to going on walks they most likely wont require choke collars if they're taught properly on a lead not to pull.
"It's not just a Dog, it's a Bull Terrier!"
www.bulliesofnc.com
I hope I do this correctly this time! Sorry for being lame! Re collars for strong willed dogs OR those who may if something happens, be able to get out of a buckle collar.
I love MARTINGALE collars! They come in leather, nylon and probably other things too but they all have something in common. Under the dog's neck they are a regular collar(I bet one of you guys can do this better than I can!). But the parts that meet over the dogs neck are connected by a "loop", This piece of Chain, nylon, whatever forms a circle so that when you attache a lead to the ring in it, the collar itself will tighten then quickly loosen as the tension is let off. They are easy on the dog and won't come off in an emergency. GOGGLE them and I expect you'll get an image which will make this much simpler! LOL
When I have a dog with a large neck compared to their head, I use these Martingales.
Hope this gives out some ideas to take a look at that may help in some cases. Sonja & Pumba in OR.
"It's not just a Dog, it's a Bull Terrier!"
www.bulliesofnc.com
I personally think a prong is a better choice then a choker-a choker for a bull terrier often rubs the thin fur and thin skin around the throat causing open sores, redness and crusty dry irritated skin.
a prong collar is FELT and thru causes (most) dogs to stop pulling and allows the prong to relax and not rub or tear the skin.
HOWEVER-these are only for very stubborn dogs who have not responded to training.
training can be difficult if your not sure what you are doing-I like to use a free-shaping loose lead walking, or even the "silky leash" technique. (you can find on youtube)
free shaping a good walk means, taking a clicker and some treats, and walk with your dog in the yard-don't pull them but switch directions-the second your bully is walking WITH YOU (even for a brief second) click and reward.
you do this until your bully isu nderstand why they are being rewarded-then you wait to click and reward for longer and longer periods of time.
"It's not just a Dog, it's a Bull Terrier!"
www.bulliesofnc.com
one of my border collies (she is 12 now) was / is a confirmed puller yet it wasnt for the want of or lack of training- she was expelled from puppy training as a problem dog at the age of 4 months- thought all the other pups were there for her to herd up- she had them in her sights and crouched like a wolf sneaking up on them-she has always been on her own agenda with the cursory glance towards training. She is probably the only girl who has reduced me to tears. Beautiful to look at- a blue Merle Welsh Collie- china blue eyes luxurious white/blue coat (although she has in the last 18months developed Cushings- so she looks a bit moth eaten now). I tried a halti head leash - she threw her whole body weight on the ground and refused to move, if she did move it was only to shovel her head along the floor trying to scrape it off- I tried a harness and I tried the old Barbara Woodhouse (english dog trainer of years ago ) idea that you keep ahead of the dog and pull him/ her up to your stride rather than the other way round. I tried a half choke chain- short chain + fabric- all failed. I ran miles in the hope of wearing her out - too tired to pull- but she just got fitter! All I can say now is I'm glad she is mine. She just wanted to be herself and I let her be- we have and have had a 50.5 / (me) 49.5(her) life together- its a hard one but sometimes once in a while we encounter canines that feel they don't need us interrupting their stride. If something is pulling against you and you let go, you haven't lost- it means the puller has because they have nothing to pull against any more- game over - cant play a football game on your own- but your're absolutely right about Bullies getting sore necks and the fur wearing down- I take my boys collar off in the house and at night when he is asleep.