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Skin issue/rash under neck: possible to use E-Collar for Off Leash Training?

My white 7(?)yo M/N BT Waldo has the same issue that is referenced in many discussions... He has consistently had no hair, a red rash, or strange dark, shorter hairs and rough skin under his neck (throat and surrounding area) since I adopted him 5 years ago.

I noticed that pretty much any fabric ("soft") or cloth type collar just rubbed and made him scratch and itch more. He would even often place his neck on the couch cushion while standing on the floor, and flail his head from side to side, scratching his neck on the corner of the cushion.

I take his collar off as much as possible, and have had more luck lately using this black nylon collar that was attached to the bark collar I destroyed with a hammer (they are torture, or at least that one was for my old black lab.**Bark=AutoZap1=Yelp from pain=AutoZap2=Yelp again=AutoZap3 ad nauseum...**

BUT MY ISSUE IS: He ran off last week and gave me a heart attack,  so I am trying to help his off-leash behavior with an e-collar, using the nylon collar vs. stock fabric one, and the vibrate function only, to just distract him if he is bolting, or sees something and is about to be an "independent" thinker.

.....but his neck is now more raw than usual even though he doesn't wear the collar unless outside off-leash, and the unit is rarely under his neck because I don't tighten it in fear of causing more friction, so he shakes it off to the side and its on the side of his neck like one of FrankenWeenie's Metal bolt pegs ;) (minus the electricity that is, just a little vibrating)

SO. Is it Possible to Use and E-Collar on a BT with Skin/Neck Issues?
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Comments

  • BulliesofNCBulliesofNC Richlands, NC
    I don't anything you are using is causing the skin problems he has going on with his neck. He's probably had it for quite some time now and anything that is put around his neck is likely to aggravate the area.

    Keeping collars off his neck as much as possible is the best solution along with rubbing some bag balm on it a couple times a day. It could be a yeast collection that localized in that area as it does on the belly, inner thighs, arm pits, feet, and ears. What food do you have him on and are you using any form of supplement to boost his immune system? Nutrition is an important part for keeping a BT healthy and strong enough to combat elements that can cause skin problems.

    When you take him out on walks I'd recommend using a slip lead leash vice collar and leash. The slip lead can be a lot narrower than any collar and remain loose over his neck unless of course he's pulling. However, by use of the slip lead it wouldn't remain in a constant grip around the neck causing further irritation the way any collar would.

    I never use collars of any type. So much easier simply using a good slip lead. Simple and effective.

    Start rubbng some bag balm on that neck of his and give him a NuVet supplement once a day. I can almost promise you that you'll see results fast.


    - Steve Gogulski
    "It's not just a Dog, it's a Bull Terrier!"
    www.bulliesofnc.com
  • edited April 2016
    Steve has already said a lot of things that went through my mind as well.

    Just adding:
    There are many different ways of training that do not require the use of vibration or other aversive methods OR collars.

    As long as he is not trained reliably to listen to you when you call him back you could keep him on a long range leash with a harness - so nothing around the neck at all - and tie the leash to something or be ready to step on it, if he starts running away. And then look for a different training method.

    http://www.amazon.com/Leashboss-Free-Range-Medium-Training/dp/B00ZYYSFUO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

    If you want to keep using the vibration collar, just an idea: Maybe there is a way to attach the vibrating part of that collar anywhere to a harness where it touches the body and use it that way.

    If it really HAS to be a collar in everyday life for some reason, similar to a slip leash, you could also use a good quality leather Martingale collar. Leather because it will slide way better around the neck than nylon or any fabric collar - reducing the friction.
    Martingale, because just as the slip leash it opens once the leash is hanging loose - again reducing friction (correct sizing is essential here).

    http://www.amazon.com/Martingale-Collar-Rolled-Leather-Padded/dp/B019857ZI2/ref=sr_1_125?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1461243273&sr=1-125&keywords=martingale

    http://www.amazon.com/Leather-Martingale-extended-Stainless-Description/dp/B00ECCQT4I/ref=sr_1_169?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1461243314&sr=1-169&keywords=martingale

    However, I would NOT combine Martingale collar and the free range leash, especially if he has a tendency to try and make his way to attractive distractions. Because there's a risk that your dog slips out of this combination when unsupervised.

    If it were my dog, I would prefer a harness anyway and not use ANY collars at all. And I would have this spot on the neck under constant supervision and care in order to soothe the skin and relieve the itch - but I guess you are already doing that.
  • WaldoandJaiWaldoandJai Salt lake city
    I will give the bag balm, vitamins, and new collar a try and see how it goes.

    It seems to be and environmental allergy because I have tried kangaroo and oat, salmon and sweet potato, and now have him on Kirkland/Costco Healthy Weight Adult Dog Chicken and Vegetable food, and didn't see any changes with other types of proteins or much when he has been on antibiotics.

    I've also given the long lead/leash method a spin and it works quite well in wide open spaces like the beach or park, but gets tangled easily when used on sidewalk type walks.

    Also, he does have a harness he wears for walks or when out of the house. It is an easy walk harness that goes around his back and under his arms. Then has a martingale type portion that runs under his neck across his upper chest, and the leash attaches under his neck vs on the top of his back. That way if he pulls right the martingale portion will tighten and pull him left. That seems to work well but sometimes leaves him a little raw under his arms if he has been doing "backflips" or spins when he meets other dogs. Haha.

    At any rate, it seems like leather or no collar at all is the best way to go with him. I'm just a worrier and am afraid if he doesn't have a collar on (inside) and happens to get out, that he wouldn't have any ID besides his chip. I will just be careful when he is roaming around indoors in the buff ;)
  • Pretty much what djammy said a long line and keep practicing recall . I found the best with my last dog who was crazy stubborn practice recall at different intervals so he doesn't associate coming back to you as going home I also made a game out of it ( if you don't mind looking like a tit ) make some noise flail those arms and run off your dog will soon be chasing you back then reward eventually you can cut out the game :) . With walking using clicker training you can teach him a nice heel command really quick  I'm from the UK so we don't really use e collars and these types of tools so I have no input on that but they scare me a little ha . Good luck :) 
  • edited April 2016
    I don't know, if I got that right, but if you are looking for a long leash to use on walks, a retractable leash is a great option. Yet choose something really sturdy. The one I have purchased 6-8 years ago after doing quite extensive research is priced a little bit above average, but it has paid off ten times and I still have it in use.
    The tape is very sturdy and it pulls out and back in smoothly. Tangling can still happen, but compared to a non-retractable training leash is largely reduced because of the retraction. I only use this leash when I want to allow my dog to walk in wide ranges.

    As you said that your dog is pulling a lot I would still suggest to practice the recall and leash walking. For the leash walking I would use a different sturdy and short leash, not the retractable one.

    I would not use a no-pull harness with a Martingale collar attached to it or a front hook harness at all on a dog with those issues on the neck. Those harnesses tend to oddly twist and to lure the dog into strange positions, which is causing the chafing under the arms.
    A well fitting regular harness with enough distance between the belly tape and the arm pits and between the chest tape and neck would be my first choice in order to avoid chafing in the wrong places once the leash tightens.

    I understand your concerns with the tag and see why you would therefore like him to constantly wear a collar. You could try to use a soft and very thin collar and put it around his neck just tight enough that he is not loosing it and attach the tag, but not a leash. Like he is wearing a nice piece of jewelry. :)
    I would probably not use a second collar for the leash in that case, rather stick to a harness to attach the leash. Because two collars (one on leash, one not) could cause unnecessary friction again.
    A Martingale collar without leash can easily fall off, that concern of yours is justified.
    If you are worried the tag metal could irritate the skin also, maybe this cover can help.

    Just some additional thoughts.
  • Puma has the same neck issue. Phil recommended coconut oil and it has worked wonders. Like you I thought it was due to her collar so I started using a harness. She doesnt fight anymore when we walk and it gives me more control
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